Looking for a new flavor? Need a little help making your next choice at your local bar or bottle shop? Dining and drinks writer and judge Virginia Miller combs through new craft spirits releases to taste, review, and recommend. Here are her top 12 picks of the month, rated on a scale of one to five.
My bottle review column (last month’s edition here) is about what is unique, standout, new and/or trending in spirits with my review ratings on a 1-5 rating scale. My 10 bottle reviews of the month:
RTDs (Ready-to-Drink/Canned or Bottled Drinks)
Djuce RTD Wines
https://djuce.us
Sustainable canned wine company, Djuce, launched in Sweden in 2022, but just came to the states May 2024. Despite the rather silly name, Djuce’s vibrant, artful cans stand out first, showcasing colorful art from artists around the world. A welcome variety of wines — best experienced in their 12-can Co:Lab: The Mix Pack ($109 SRP) — are produced by sustainably farmed, organic European winemakers. I enjoyed the mix, from an Italian 2021 Cirelli Vino Rosso to a 2021 Mehling Riesling. Between the art and styles — chilled reds, orange, rosé, “fizzy” and crisp whites — it’s a playful, quality, standout new RTD wine line.
Taste Rating: 4 to 5
GIN
Stillweather Spirits American Sunset Gin
www.stillweatherspirits.com/our-products
Family-owned and operated — by co-owners Erin and Jeff D’Achino — Stillweather Spirits is a Portland-based distillery that just released American Sunset Gin. This barrel-rested gin is a rich golden hue rested briefly in ex-rum barrels. For fans of barrel aged gins or sweeter rums, this will please. The body is silky and the flavors integrated. I struggle with barrel aged gins as I find they often mask what I love about gin the most. In this case, there is subtle juniper and citrus, but mostly sweet vanilla and sugarcane rum notes. For barrel aged gin devotees, it’s a better release than many with a striking, colorful label that feels current and fresh.
Taste Rating: 3.5
TEQUILA
• León Y Sol Tequila Blanco
https://leonysol.com/collections/all/products/leon-y-sol-tequila-blanco-750ml
León Y Sol Blanco Tequila was just released June 2024 in California and soon in other markets, a solid tequila by third-generation Maestro Tequilero Jose Aceves in the Highlands of Los Altos de Jalisco in striking black bottles featuring artwork of the namesake lion and sun. I’ve only tried the blanco ($69 SRP), not the reposado tequila. It’s a bit more tannic and “hot” than expected, though its bright floral, citrus notes shine through, finishing with herbaceous hints and bolder ripe agave.
Taste Rating: 3.5
• El Mayor Rosado Reposado Tequila
https://elmayor.com/es/rosado-reposado
El Mayor Rosado Reposado ($44.99 SRP) was released July 2024. Distilled at Destiladora Gonzalez Lux by the Gonzalez family, this tequila is from 100% estate-grown, Blue Weber agave, finished in Cabernet Sauvignon casks for nine months. Rosy with berries, vanilla and gentle spice, the tequila’s dry wine tannins dominate, a boon for fans of woody tequilas. For those of us who want agave first and foremost in a tequila, it leans too tannic for me. But there are darker berry flavors for those seeking a more robust, oaky rosado tequila.
Taste Rating: 3
RUM
• Holmes Cay Infinity Rum
www.holmescay.com/single-cask-editions
Historically, I have loved Holmes Cay rums, like Trinidad 2012, 2017 Mhoba, 2012 Barbados Port Cask and Fiji Rum. The very limited edition, $1500 per bottle Holmes Cay Infinity Rum is a steep price indeed. Normally, Holmes Cay reserves these types of releases for Europe but just released Infinity in the States in August 2024. This blend of aged rums runs from 1976 through 2003, distilled at now-defunct distillers (Caroni, Uitvlugt, Enmore, Gardel) and still-going distilleries like Hampden, Long Pond, Diamond, Montebello. From a total of 13 distilleries across 7 countries, an accompanying little book explains the rum sources, while a bracing 58% ABV explains the overly tannic, woody hit, the one thing keeping me from a perfect five stars. But layers unfold here of baking spices, caramel, ripe banana, tobacco and leather. The kind of rum that will appeal to cask strength whiskey drinkers.
Taste Rating: 4.5
• Pa’Lante Rum
https://ronpalante.com
With Cuban rum influence but produced in Chiapas, Mexico, Pa’lante Rum was founded by Cuban American Zurita brothers, following in their father’s footsteps, as he made rum in Cuba. Friend and Cuban master distiller, Jorge Perez, distills the rums with full Mexican ingredients but Cuban rum-making techniques, using no added sugar or coloring. So unlike some of the funky, agricole-like Mexican rums I adore, these sugarcane and molasses distillates are Cuban-style. The clean yet vanilla-tinged Pa’lante Blanco Rum ($29.99), the subtle caramel robustness of the Pa’lante Reposado Rum ($34.99) and the darker, slightly funkier, nutty notes of the Pa’lante Añejo Rum ($44.99), aged a minimum of 8 years in both Mexican and American oak. Though I often prefer young, fresh rums, I unexpectedly like the Anejo best, finding it shines in cocktails with warm depth.
Taste Rating: 3-4
NA (Non-Alcoholic) SPIRITS
La Planta Non-Alcoholic Agave Spirit
https://philandgoode.com/products/la-planta-non-alcoholic-tequila-reposado
As the non-alcoholic category continues to explode, Bravus Brewing Co founder Philip Brandes launched La Planta Reposado Tequila Alternative (SRP $34.99) July 2024. It’s distilled from agave, oak, filtered water, “natural tequila flavor” and white button mushroom fiber extract. The latter is to add depth and texture and this “reposado” does have more body and texture than many NA spirits, a tough thing to achieve. I can’t say it really tastes much like agave or tequila at all. But it is pleasant with a caramel and herbaceous bitter note alongside a fruity juiciness. However, it requires coming up with its own cocktails since it’s not a natural fill-in for just any tequila cocktail (it does work nicely with lime and simple syrup, though doesn’t taste like a margarita). Kudos to no sugar, thickeners or preservatives added, as is the unfortunate case with many NA spirits.
Taste Rating: 3.5
SCOTCH
Ardbeg Anthology The Unicorn’s Tale
www.ardbeg.com/en-gb/theunicornstale.html
Yet another winner from the great Ardbeg, Ardbeg Anthology The Unicorn’s Tale (46% ABV) is the second edition in the Ardbeg Anthology Collection. Aged for 14 years in Madeira and bourbon casks, nutty Madeira sweetness comes through on the nose and finish, but it’s intriguing layers of cedarwood, tropical and stone fruit, subtle peat, spice and herbaceous notes that make this complex yet drinkable Scotch a beauty.
Taste Rating: 4.5
RYE WHISKEY
Blue Note Honey Rye Cask Whiskey
www.bluenotebourbon.com/products/honey-rye
From Memphis, Blue Note Honey Rye Cask, at a bracing 58.5% ABV, is surely hot, even tannic. But it’s also sweet and robust with cherry, apricot, caramel, spices and floral whispers from the wildflower honey. For cask strength whiskey lovers, this minimum three years-aged rye whiskey is a winner, it’s 95% Rye and 5% Malted Barley mashbill, showcasing rye’s beautiful spice with bold finesse.
Taste Rating: 4.5
VODKA
Osmia Vodka
www.queenbeedistilling.com
I can’t think of a justification for $98 for this “ultra-premium luxury vodka,” but for vodka lovers, the new Osmia Vodka from Queen Bee Distilling achieves those clean, smooth notes many vodka drinkers are looking for and is female-founded by Catharine Faulconer and Kim Martin from Houston, friends for over 45 years. Besides a lifelong friendship, they share struggles with autoimmune issues and allergies, struggling to find spirits without some form of grains, gluten or nightshades they had to keep out of their diet. This led to the creation of Osmia, distilled from raw, chemical-free honey and organic non-GMO sugar cane. While I struggle with neutrality as a “flavor,” for those seeking an elegant, understated vodka, this is one with clean, uber-subtle citrus notes from its sugarcane base and an admirable focus on reducing water usage.
Taste Rating: 4
Ready for another round? Visit Virginia’s website http://www.theperfectspotsf.com/wp02/for last month’s edition, plus personal recommendations on the best spots in cities around the world.
