Looking for a new flavor? Need a little help making your next choice at your local bar or bottle shop? Dining and drinks writer and judge Virginia Miller combs through new craft spirits releases to taste, review, and recommend. Here are her top 12 picks of the month, rated on a scale of one to five.
My bottle review column (last month’s edition here) is about what is unique, standout, new and/or trending in spirits with my review ratings on a 1-5 rating scale. My 10 bottle reviews of the month:
RUM
Burdekin Wild Child Rum
https://burdekinrum.com.au/product/wildchild/
Burdekin Distillery is situated at the foot of Mt. Elliot in Bowling Green National Park, North Queensland, at the confluence of rainforests and the Coral Sea. This Australian rum has delighted me in the past — like their stunning Virgin Cane Spirit — for their grassy-green, agricole style, made from locally grown cane. Their minerality comes from spring mineral water on their property. Wild Child is their new, very limited release (350 bottles) featuring wild fermented cane juice, resulting in grassy, herbaceous goodness. They always have interesting rums in the works, like higher proof, unaged Coral Sea Strength agricole (54.5% ABV) and a VO molasses rum aged 3 years.
Taste Rating: 4.5
SAKE
Oishii Sake
www.oishiisake.com
American brand Oishii Sake was founded by Buzzy Sklar and is produced in Virginia from ingredients like Arkansas Titan rice and Blue Ridge Mountain water. Employing traditional Japanese brewing methods, they take a wine approach with their fruit-forward, food-friendly sakes. They produce Oishii Clear and Oishii Cloudy Nigori, the former leaning towards classic crisp pear and melon sake flavors but full-bodied and robust. The Cloudy is likewise full-bodied, creamy, ripe with banana and melon.
Taste Rating: 4
TEQUILA
Socorro Tequila
https://socorrotequila.com
Texas-based brand Socorro Tequila means “help” or “assistance,” a Jalisco-produced tequila line centered around philanthropy and a love for Mexico. Co-founders and industry vets Josh Irving and Pablo Antinori started their “case for a case” initiative, donating a case of water to Mexico orphanages, nursing homes or communities for each case of tequila sold. Quite affordable by today’s tequila prices ($32.99 to $42.99 SRP), their tequilas aren’t the most complex or memorable out there, but they are cocktail friendly and a good value, from the ripe green agave notes of the Blanco, to the slightly oaky, toffee Reposado, to the vanilla, roasted sweet agave flavors of the Añejo.
Taste Rating: 3 to 4
RTDs (Ready-to-Drink/Canned)
Local Motion RTDs
https://local-motion.co
New Mill Valley-based, women-owned Local Motion is a line of vodka sodas without sugar, sweeteners or artificial additives. In addition to a classic vodka soda, there are four flavors, all subtle: peach, strawberry, pear, mixed citrus. Inspired by her husband’s unexpected diagnosis of Type 1 diabetes in 2022, founder Heather Wyatt (proprietor of Sunstream Brands) wanted to create a clean, sugar and additive-free RTD he could enjoy. Each is thankfully clean and not sweet, but being hard seltzer, all is a bit too subtle, tasting more like sparkling water with a hint of fruit.
Taste Rating: 4
GIN
Middle West Spirits Vim & Petal American Dry Gin
https://shop.middlewestspirits.com/products/vim-petal-gin
Vim & Petal American Dry Gin is distilled at Middle West Spirits in Columbus, OH. This American-style dry gin is inspired by a culinary palate with 18 botanicals adding layers, including Ohio soft red winter wheat, elderberry, toasted black tea, Sichuan peppercorn, epazote, hibiscus, jasmine, rose hips, black and green cardamom. The gin hits a bit sharp and harsh, with lemon citrus notes dominating, rolling out with hints of lavender and peppercorn.
Taste Rating: 3
JAPANESE WHISKEY
Kanosuke Whisky
https://kanosuke-en.com/products
Launched in 2017, Kanosuke is making waves in Japanese whisky, distilled in Japan’s southernmost region, named after founder and master blender Yoshitsugu Komasa’s grandfather, who hails from a distilling family with over 140 years making shochu. Released in the States mid-2024, there are three imports ranging from 48% to 53% ABV: Kanosuke Japanese Single Malt Whisky ($99.99 SRP), Hioki Japanese Pot Still Grain Whisky ($109.99) and Double Distillery Japanese Blended Whisky ($119.99). With the distillery’s locale right on the sea, briny, tropical notes come through. Start with the balanced, approachable Single Malt Whisky, then move to the Hioki Pot Still Grain Whisky distilled with shochu techniques. Their Japanese Blended Whisky is a prime example of what this exciting new distillery does best, combining elements from their Single Malt and Pot Still processes.
Taste Rating: 4.5 to 5
IRISH WHISKEY
Teeling Irish Whiskey Phoenix Legends 24 YO Single Malt
www.teelingwhiskey.com/us/en
Teeling has long been a pioneer in the renaissance of Irish Whiskey, creating quality, small batch whiskeys. In November 2024, they released a very limited, 1000 bottle Teeling Irish Whiskey Phoenix Legends 24-year Single Malt (46% ABV; $500 SRP) as the first of their three Notre Dame bottlings (celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Irish football team’s 1924 National Championship) in their Teeling Phoenix Legends line. Finished in Rivesaltes fortified French wine casks, baking spice and raisins unfold with sweet pineapple, coconut and honey from the wine casks, balanced by wood. It’s a beauty.
Taste Rating: 4.5
INDIAN WHISKY
Paul John 2024 Christmas Edition Single Malt Whisky
https://pauljohnwhisky.com/christmas-edition-2024.php
Paul John Indian Single Malt delights again with their 2024 Christmas Edition Indian Single Malt Whisky (46% ABV; $79.99 SRP), the 7th edition in their limited series. Distilled in Goa, India, it’s another unpeated expression that expresses Goa’s coastal setting with tropical notes of mango and coconut, alongside sandalwood and candied orange. Finished in a Caribbean rum cask after aging in virgin oak, there were only 7,000 bottles produced for the U.S., imported by Sazerac Company.
Taste Rating: 4.5
AMERICAN WHISKEY
• Woodford Reserve Madeira Cask Finish
https://shop.woodfordreserve.com
In October 2024, major brand Woodford Reserve released its 20th Master’s Collection whiskey: Madeira Cask Finish ($179.99 SRP). Master distiller Elizabeth McCall follows in Woodford’s tradition as one of the first bourbons to finish aging in wine casks since 2007 with this bourbon blended with wheat whiskey and finished in Madeira wine casks. The balanced and approachable whiskey rolls out with brown sugar, cherry, baking spices and candied orange, finishing nutty and warm.
Taste Rating: 4.5
• Stoll & Wolfe Rosen Rye Whiskey
www.stollandwolfe.com
Released November 2024, Stoll & Wolfe’s winter whiskey Rosen Rye (53.25% ABV; $120 SRP) was first developed in 1910, but the grain was done away with eventually due to cross-contamination of its more common varieties. Since 2015, the grain was planted and revived in Pennsylvania’s Lancaster County where the distillery is located. Stoll & Wolfe employs open cypress tank fermentation, with grain grown at nearby 1741 Kline Family Farm. The 4-Year Single Barrel Kline Farm Rosen Rye is tannic and hot, though spiced notes of ginger, cherry, vanilla, candied citrus, dark chocolate and toasted oak roll out. If it weren’t for the hot palate, I’d rate it even higher.
Taste Rating: 3.5
Ready for another round? Visit Virginia’s website http://www.theperfectspotsf.com/wp02/ for last month’s edition, plus personal recommendations on the best spots in cities around the world.
