My bottle review column (last month’s edition here) is about what is unique, standout, new or trending in spirits with my review ratings on a 1–5 rating scale. More than ever, small-batch distillers and drink producers need our aid. Please, support small business and quality. My 10 bottle picks of the month:
SHOCHU
Iichiko Saiten and Silhouette Shochu
Distilled in two different expressions, Saiten and Silhouette, on Japan’s southernmost island, Kyushu (Oita Prefecture), iichiko Shochu is a prime example of Japan’s native spirit, shochu being distilled rice (kome), barley (mugi), sweet potatoes (satsuma-imo), buckwheat (soba), but also ingredients as far reaching as carrots, chestnuts or sesame seeds. Iichiko is distilled only once from 100% two-row barley, fermented with koji, boasting a water source naturally filtered through volcanic rock. Silhouette is the classic shochu at 25% ABV: light, crushable and ideal as a highball, or with juice, tea or soda. Saiten was a smart move, created for bartenders at a higher 43% ABV so it holds up in cocktails. On its own, it exudes subtle notes honeydew, citrus, white pepper, barley, umami and pickled watermelon rind.
Taste rating: 4
Taste rating: 4.5
Cocktail inspo — The umami gimlet is a personal fave @iichiko_usa
AGAVE SPIRITS — MEZCAL
Bozal Guias de Calabaza Sacrificio Mezcal
I’m a big fan of Bozal, elegant-yet-robust mezcals distilled from agaves grown in Oaxaca, Guerrero and Durango, Mexico. Bozal Guias de Calabaza Sacrificio Mezcal is a unique beauty of a seasonal, vegetarian mezcal produced in a historic, pechuga-esque process where pumpkin stems (hence the calabaza), seasonal fruits and grains are suspended inside the bottom of the still in a basket imparting their nuances to the spirit. This edition includes pineapple, plantains, pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and oranges, giving the mezcal citrus peel and blossom notes, as well as vegetal and herbaceous depth (mint, eucalyptus, green-charred bell pepper). So far, I’d vouch for anything in this beautiful mezcal line (artful down to its different-colored ceramic bottles).
Taste Rating: 4.5
Madre Mezcal
Yes, Madre Mezcal can be a bit medicinal (not uncommon with some mezcals), but ultimately, it’s an ideal cocktail mezcal distilled from 70% Espadin and 30% Cuixe (agave Karwinskii) agaves. This is quality mezcal for the price point, complex but not as delicate as some pricier brands. Madre is distilled from a traditional Zapotec recipe, bracing and layered with white and black pepper, earth, citrus, clay, green pepper, sage, tobacco, even tropical fruit.
Taste Rating: 4
AMERICAN WHISKEY — SINGLE MALT
Elk Fence Distillery’s The Briny Deep Single Malt
A Sonoma County newcomer in late 2020, Elk Fence Distillery was in the works pre-pandemic. Partners in distilling and running the company, Gail Coppinger and Scott Woodson, named the brand after a spot in Tomales Point where they initially grew their barley, Elk Fence. Distilling a nicely balanced vodka, Fir Top Gin and The Briny Deep whiskey, they’ve been aging this first release of their barley-based whiskey (second edition out in September 2021) for two years. The Briny Deep is an unfiltered single malt that manages to steer away from the overly tannic foibles that plague many craft American whiskies. It’s woody, to be sure, but also bold, barley-forward and unexpectedly nutty. I look forward to tasting what this duo produces going forward.
Taste rating: 4
Michter’s US*1 Barrel Strength Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey
Michter’s new, limited edition US*1 Barrel Strength Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey came out this March, from master distiller Dan McKee. At 110.3 proof ($100), it’s bracing, to be sure, but it’s what rye whiskey lovers dream of: the right marriage between bold yet balanced. There is sweetness and rye spice, but green herbal (from spearmint to Thai basil) and salted caramel notes make it sing, with an oaky but not overly tannic finish.
Taste Rating: 4.5
GIN
Isle of Harris Gin
Isle of Harris Gin is evocative to my imagination from story to bottle. Produced in a small Scottish village of Tarbert on the remote Isle of Harris in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, the spirit is softened by low-mineral rainwaters from the nearby stream, Abhainn Cnoc a ’Charrain. An infusion of sugar kelp seaweed — gathered sustainably by hand from local sea-lochs— is their unique botanical out of nine total. The maritime connection is apparent down to the lightly sea blue, rippled glass bottle recalling waves. Briny seaweed notes are subtle compared to more seaweed forward-gins I’ve tasted out of California and beyond over the years (like Oakland Spirits Sea Gin). It’s citrus (bitter orange, lime, grapefruit), mango and floral (rose, wallflowers) notes that shine next to pine, coriander and black pepper. This lovely gin mixes well in cocktails.
Taste rating: 4
Citadelle Jardin d’été Gin
Just out in April 2021 from French gin line, Citadelle, and founder Alexandre Gabriel (of Maison Ferrand), the Charente-produced gin’s new Jardin d’été starts with the same 19 botanicals as the Citadelle Original, then adds botanicals from a garden cultivated by Gabriel’s wife, including Charentais melon, additional orange peel, whole lemon and yuzu zest. The garden inspiration comes through via an aromatic, floral, ripe melon hit that confirms it’s still a gin as its herbaceous, juniper side undergirds the floral, fruity elements. Being terroir-focused, Citadelle cultivates several hectares of juniper trees across the road from their Château de Bonbonnet, used in all their gins. At $24.99, it’s a remarkable value and thus ideal for cocktails and bartenders.
Taste rating: 4.5
AGAVE SPIRITS: TEQUILA
Mijenta Tequila Reposado
Maestra tequilera Ana Maria Romero created small-batch (6,500 bottles) Mijenta Reposado ($69.99) as a fuller expression of her blanco. Already grateful to call out a female-produced tequila, I also admire the company’s sustainable ethos, from its treatment of the land to eco-certified packaging. As the only tequila I’ve tried in their line, I can’t comment on the rest of Mijenta’s tequilas. But their Reposado, aged up to 6 months in a blend of American white oak and European acacia casks, hits heavy with vanilla and oak on the nose, overwhelming other notes. Thankfully, the palate offers much more, including a rich nuttiness, vanilla, coconut, orange blossoms and earthy, subtle chocolate.
Taste rating: 4
IRISH WHISKEY
Egan’s Irish Whiskey
The Egans have a rich history in Ireland of malting, brewing and distilling, a brand revived in recent years, expressing the elegance and range of what has been happening in Ireland since new distilleries were finally allowed to open up. Egan’s revives history yet looks ahead with the never-ending trend of different casks, like Fortitude, aged in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks, rich with raisins and marzipan. Centenary (a blend of single grain and single malt) is elegantly dry yet fruity, aged in XO Cognac casks. It’s hard not to fall for Legacy Reserve Vol. III, aged 17 years in Cadillac A.O.C. casks. It’s light yet lush with baked stone fruits, butter and honey.
Vintage Grain Taste rating ($40): 4
Fortitude Taste rating ($50): 4.5
Centenary Taste rating ($100): 4.5
Legacy Reserve Vol. III Taste rating ($200): 5
RTDs (Ready-to-Drink/Canned)
Tattersall Bottled Cocktails
My longtime Minneapolis distilling favorite (especially for their aquavit), Tattersall Distilling is opening a destination distillery and second production facility in River Falls, Wisconsin, this fall, complete with amphitheater, ballroom and restaurant (given Minnesota’s restrictive liquor laws, they’ve been forced to look beyond the state in opening their 2nd distillery, one that will allow them to meet ever growing demand). They’ve also recently released bottled cocktails featuring their spirits in large 750 ml bottles. At 30-35% ABV, these are properly robust cocktails vs. low proof canned drinks, featuring their spirits. They’re either literally ready-to-drink or just need soda water added (as with the Salty Dog). Their bottled Manhattan and Old Fashioned showcase Tattersall whiskey, even if the Manhattan runs a touch too sweet, while the Salty Dog and Cosmo Bianco are the crowd pleasers.
Taste rating: 4
LiveWire Cocktail Co.
Among the most exciting RTD cocktails I’ve tasted recently are from LiveWire Cocktail Co. Why? In part, because it’s not yet another canned Gin and Tonic or Margarita. These are original cocktails by professional bartenders. LA-based Aaron Polsky started the brand in 2019, down to its rock ‘n’ roll vibe and art. I recently sampled a few LiveWire cocktails, including the first created with Erin Hayes, former bar manager of Chicago’s Lost Lake, current partner/director of sales & trade advocacy at Westward Whiskey. Hayes’ drink is Rocket Queen, named after her favorite Guns N’ Roses song, a lively mix of Magdalena Rum, absinthe, pomello, cinnamon and pandan ($19.99/4 pk) with art by Chicago artist Corinne Halbert. Other standouts include Polsky’s Heartbreaker and Honeydew Collins by Harvard and Stone bartender Joey Bernardo.
Taste rating: 4.5
Additional RTDs:
• Sava Lime Basil: One of a growing number of cannabis RTDs, Sava Lime Basil is non-alcoholic, microdosed with 1:2 ratio of THC and CBD, 30-35 calories per can and beautifully subtle and fresh, imparting a light buzz. This is how CBD drinks should be done. Taste rating: 5
• Fishers Lemonade: Fishers Island Lemonade was started in 2014 by Bronya Shillo, inspired by the signature house cocktail at her family’s Pequot Inn in Fisher’s Island, NY. Giving back to the community and restaurant industry in COVID, Shillo focuses on real lemons, tea and honey in vodka and whiskey bases with the fun addition of Spirit Pops, adding to the burgeoning boozy popsicle arena. The drinks are nicely dry and balanced, with only Fizz being bubbly. Pink Flamingo (vodka, barrel-aged whiskey, lemonade, cranberry juice) and Spiked Tea are standouts. Taste rating: 4
• American Liquor Company: From Philly-based Robert Cassell of New Liberty Distillery, this new line of ready-to-drink (RTD) canned cocktails under American Liquor Company (ALCO) isn’t reinventing anything, featuring basics from Gin & Tonic to Sparkling Vodka Lemonade. But they’re done well, like the G&T featuring Red Ribbon Tonic Water from Pittsburgh. Orange Crush is a crowd pleaser and the Margarita features real lime juice, even if it runs a tad sweet. Taste rating: 3.5 to 4
• Tequila Cazadores: As expected from a major brand like Tequila Cazadores, their just-released line (nationwide in May) of standard tequila cocktail classic RTDS (margarita, spicy margarita and paloma) are made with 100 percent blue agave and properly balanced from start to finish. The Spicy Marg goes down all too easy, with just enough heat to give it a kick but not overwhelm the fresh lime. Taste rating: 4 to 4.5
