In New Orleans — a city that reveres the past just as it celebrates like nowhere else — it’s not difficult to find a cocktail. After all, open drinking on the streets is 100% legal and the city’s cocktail history is as rich as it gets. But even during the cocktail renaissance that swept New York and San Francisco over a decade ago and on throughout the nation, New Orleans still staunchly stuck to the classics.
And what classics they are. The city has spawned some of the greatest drinks in history: the Sazerac, Ramos Gin Fizz, and Vieux Carre, to name but a few … and there are many places where you can find well-executed versions, from artisan-cocktail den to comfortable dive bar.
Few barmen exist in the country like Chris McMillian, now at Kingfish in the French Quarter. A lifelong bartender, he focuses on service first, has an inspiring knowledge of cocktail history, and can recite an 1850’s poem about the Mint Julep while he makes you the most perfect one you’ve ever had. He focuses on perfecting the classics rather than continuing to reinvent new cocktails. After decades of service, he’s more about making you comfortable at the bar than about showing off. He exemplifies New Orleans bartending and spurred on an even greater passion for drink history and quality in myself when I first sat his bar back in 2007.
Dedication to history and quality of the craft are among the most refreshing things about New Orleans’ cocktail scene. But leading drink cities should have a variety of offerings. There was a time not long ago when it was difficult to find much outside of the more traditional or, alternately, the party mode in the city. Even the addition of the cocktail bar Cure in 2009 — the first to feel like a modern day version of classic cocktail type of bars proliferating in other cities — didn’t suddenly mean NOLA was in step with major cocktail scenes in the US. While a number of new bars and a recent influx of bartenders from other cities have provided a greater range of cocktail styles across the city, there isn’t an extensive list. My annual (sometimes twice annual) visits allow me to easily catch up on any newcomers with plenty of time to return to favorites.
But then, just as with its food, you don’t want New Orleans to be like any other city. In fact, the city’s dedication to its rich, unparalleled history — in food, drink, music and culture — is what continues to set it apart. Having a respectable but not overwhelming range of cocktail bars doesn’t mean there’s not plenty going on in cocktails and spirits.
New Orleans is home to Tales of the Cocktail, when over 20,000 cocktail and spirits industry folk descend upon New Orleans every hot, oppressive July for the biggest cocktail conference in the world. But it is in the last three years, or so, especially, that a new wave is hitting the city. More bars have opened — Cure owners Neal Bodenheimer, Kirk Estopinal and Matthew Kohnke, added two more places (Bellocq, Cane & Table). An influx of New York bartenders and drink-industry folk from other states are moving to New Orleans, like famed Tiki expert/writer Jeff “Beachbum” Berry (beachbumberry.com), a transplant from Southern California who should open his long-awaited Tiki bar later this year.
Bitters producer Bittermens moved their headquarters from New York, though their liqueurs are still produced in New York State. And craft distillers have hit Southern Louisiana, with a good five whose names come up often in the region: Atelier Vie, Bayou Rum, Cajun Rum, Donner-Peltier, and Old New Orleans Rum (as you can see, plenty of local rum — absinthe is also prevalent).
Though all these newcomers have infused more variety in to the city’s spirits and cocktail scenes, New Orleans’ unique strength still lies in perfecting of the classics, its one-of-a-kind culture and a hospitable spirit of constant celebration. In addition to New Orleans’ historic, famed watering holes like Tujague’s, the Hotel Monteleone’s Carousel Bar, Napoleon House and the great Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, here’s a mix of some of New Orleans best bars from the newer wave and a classic (Arnaud’s), some consciously stocking quality spirits from micro distilleries.
LOA, Central Business District
Don’t let the chandelier-dripped hotel bar setting at the International House dissuade you. Loa remains one of the truly inventive cocktail menus of New Orleans, thanks to bar manager Alan Walter. Nowhere in New Orleans have I seen the thoughtful, rare, ahead-of-the-curve collection of rare and small-batch spirits as at Loa. Walter has a keen eye for the unusual and palate for
high quality.
The Green Door cocktail is a must: vivacious, herbal notes of Green Chartreuse mix with fresh pressed apple, mint, lemon and basil and Art in the Age’s (in Philadelphia) SAGE liqueur. Served in a curvaceous silver bowl, the aromatics fill the nose. Sipping this elixir, is like bathing in a green garden — bright, eye-opening. In the Drawing Room cocktail, Redbreast Irish whiskey intermingles with gorgeous Crispin’s Rose Liqueur from Greenway Distillers, from Northern California, and herbaceous Elisir M.P. Roux. Walter plays with classics to memorable effect, like using coconut milk instead of cream in an Absinthe Suissesse. (www.ihhotel.com/bar.html).
KINGFISH, French Quarter
Wherever bartender Chris McMillian bartends, go. As the consummate, lifelong bartender, he’s what the great bartenders of yore must have been: perfecting the classics, not worrying about the latest trendy cocktail, focused on service (he is also a co-founder of the Museum of the American Cocktail, a must visit for cocktail aficionados in NOLA, reopening in the Southern Food and Beverage Museum). Just try McMillian’s perfect Ramos Gin Fizz on a sultry NOLA day. As he foams up egg white over the back of a spoon in a tall glass, served cool with absinthe, creme de menthe, orgeat and cream, you know you’re being served by one of the greats. Afterwards, such classics will often pale made by the hands of others. Case in point: his Absinthe Suissesse is mesmerizing in its perfect simplicity and thirst-quenching on a hot, NOLA day. (www.cocktailbarneworleans.com)
BELLOCQ, (Central Business District)
Of all the newer wave of cocktail bars in classic-cocktail-driven New Orleans, Bellocq (in the Hotel Modern) is one of the best. In my estimation, it stands above its sister bars, Cure and Cane & Table. Opened as a cobbler bar (akin to the Julep, this 1800’s cocktail is typically a base spirit, sugar and fresh fruit over crushed ice), it doesn’t do what many might: copy bars done better elsewhere in the country — if I can draw any parallels, the bar subtly recalls the cobbler and julep menu at London steakhouse Hawksmoor. Nationally speaking, Bellocq is a unique place and I stop in each time I return to NOLA.
Luxurious velvet couches and corners beckon on a hot NOLA night. The bartenders know their stuff, while the unique focus on icy cobblers, sometimes served in frosty silver mugs akin to a Julep cup, might be nutty with Madeira or herbaceous-sweet with yellow Chartreuse. My favorite drink since opening has been a Bual Madeira Cobbler touched with orange and lemon, showcasing those fantastic Madeira properties: nutty, dry, complex. They also serve a range of cocktails outside the cobbler. Last visit, I was smitten with a subtly complex blend of Genepy, Creme de Cacao and Old Tom Gin. (www.thehotelmodern.com/bellocq)
COQUETTE, Irish Channel
One of my all-time favorite restaurants in NOLA, Coquette is the “whole package”: in a beauty of an 1800’s house, with warm service, excellent modern-playful New Orleans cuisine, and quality cocktails to boot. They have fun with mezcal, while their St. James Sour is a beauty of Legendre
Herbsaint (a classic, absinthe-like, anise-based liqueur), lemon, egg white and bitters perfected by root beer extract — a sort of root beer absinthe sour. High West Double Rye whiskey intriguingly mingles with Chartreuse and vermouth in a Carthusian Cowboy. (www.coquettenola.com)
CANE & TABLE, French Quarter
Cane & Table opened in 2013 within days of Tales of the Cocktail. From the team behind Cure and Bellocq, it’s a restaurant and rum-heavy bar that evokes Colonial-era rum trading with a Caribbean-influenced food menu. Improved Bombo is an example of the right mix: the subtle funk of Smith & Cross Navy Strength Rum, smooth Plantation 5 year rum, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, Bittermens Tiki Bitters and fresh nutmeg coalesce into a pleasing whole. Imported rums tend to dominate the menu, rather than American products, but you might find the likes of Portland’s House Spirits Krogstaad Aquavit showing up in a Danish Fly cocktail combined with Giffard Banana Liqueur, lemon and grenadine. The only-in-New-Orleans back patio seals the deal. (www.caneandtablenola.com)
ARNAUD’s FRENCH 75 BAR, French Quarter
Widely regarded as one of the best bars in New Orleans, French 75, tucked off the historic restaurant Arnaud’s, is truly the ideal classic bar. It feels like an old movie set, intimate, sexy, elegant, with the added (and rare) perk of being a cigar lounge. So light up and take in the circa-1930s atmosphere while sipping a French 75 (of course), Stinger or an aperitif. Though the menu cocktails tend to feature big brands and the vibe is old school, it’s run by one of New Orleans best and most beloved bartenders, Chris Hannah, who has passion for the classics and executes them exquisitely. His thoughtful take on small batch vs. big brands and getting bartenders on board with a spirit is shared with us on our New Orleans bartender interview. (www.arnaudsrestaurant.com/french-75)
MAUREPAS FOODS, Bywater
Maurepas Foods is one of the more hip, fun NOLA restaurants (think goat tacos accompanied by pickled green tomatoes and cilantro harissa), aided by strong cocktail offerings from Minneapolis transplant Brad Smith. The menu is seasonal, straightforward but still interesting. A Bywater Daiquiri is the shining neighborhood star, a vivacious, not-too-sweet combination of rum, mango, banana, lime, and piloncillo (unrefined whole cane sugar). Or they might serve a drink like the Chouchoot showcasing Sorel (www.jackfrombrooklyn.com/recipe-products/sorel) from Brooklyn (a spirit modeled after the spiced Jamaican hibiscus juice), mixing it with local Bayou Spiced Rum and clove butter. (www.maurepasfoods.com)
SYLVAIN, French Quarter
Sylvain ideally captures the spirit of the Quarter (the real Quarter away from Bourbon Street) in its welcoming space. Built in 1796, the restaurant evokes a Colonial tavern feel. Cocktails are straightforward (commonly three to four ingredients), skillfully prepared — and good fun to boot. High West Double Rye Whiskey is showcased in Life Of A Surfboard, illuminated by spiced pineapple syrup, Lillet Blanc, Cocchi Torino, lemon and local Bittermens Tiki Bitters.
(www.sylvainnola.com)
BAR TONIQUE
Bar Tonique is on the edge of the Quarter and the Treme, facing Louis Armstrong Park. Like its location, it has a dive bar edge and comfort factor behind its classic cocktails. Booths line the brick-walled space boasting a cozy alcove and plenty of bar stools. Staff are tatooed, generally friendly and shake some fine classics affordably under $10. They also stock some small-batch spirits and might showcase a local distillery like Old New Orleans Cajun Spiced Rum in The Saint Claude cocktail with Luxardo Maraschino liqueur and lemon. (www.bartonique.com)
SoBou
Though the name SoBou (referring to South of Bourbon Street) might feel trendy, the multi-roomed, festive restaurant is conveniently located in the Quarter and its bar chef Abigail Deirdre Gullo, a transplant from New York City a few years back, ensures the cocktail menu is one of the strongest in the Quarter. And for the beer lover, there are beer taps actually at individual tables (dangerous!) The menu doesn’t veer too far from twists on classic cocktails, but they can create beautiful off-menu imbibements based on your taste preferences. (www.sobounola.com)
